Photos of old Zagreb

Writing about my previous post I couldn't help but thinking about my hometown.
I was born and raised in centre of Zagreb - trotted around these streets as a kid, with a key around my neck as I walked to the school, passed ancient cobbled stone alleys smelling on urine, played in a parks, the Cathedral looming above everything else, always in a state of never-ending repair. But as opposite to many people who genuinely love this place and its familiar habits (it is kind of little Vienna) not to mention visitors and ambitious students who arrive daily from everywhere to find their luck here, as long as I can remember I always wanted to get the hell out of here. In my mind I still see little me with all those countless books from pubic libraries (yes, I visited several) daydreaming where in the world I would love to escape. Lo and behold, escaped I did and roamed much further than any of my old friends. This "urge for going" was simply natural instinct to spread my wings and try different air, to see different architecture, try different food and to simply see something beyond grayness of the city that suffocated me.

I am perfectly aware that Zagreb has its charm -  there are centuries of legends and wonderful stories behind these houses, squares and particularly its medieval heart - but as natural-born "purger" (colloquial, slightly derogative nickname for a person from Zagreb) I am also aware of character of its people, pettiness, envy, small-mindness and constant concern of "what people will say" so typical of Zagreb. Famous writer Krleža once described this town unforgettably with words "If envy could burn, Zagreb would burn in a huge fire" and it surely never nurtured it heroes - whoever has a sculpture now, was despised and criticised once. In my opinion it has a lot to do with its geographical location, so close to central Europe and its biggest cities, but still standing with one leg on the Balkans. Trough the history there were always foreign attempts to establish some standard of culture (Austria, Hungary) and locals clashing with them, demanding independence, constant push-and-pull, with roads, bridges and palaces built by those same foreigners. Anywhere you look around Zagreb now, these magnificent buildings were once property of aristocrats who were considered "oppressors".

Surely my feelings are coloured with personal experience of growing up here as unhappy child in foster-home and a constant idea of not truly belonging. Even now, at the age of 45 I walk trough these streets with more or less indifference, where my heart burst with excitement in places like Amsterdam or Copenhagen. Its not about Croatia as country, because I truly enjoy any other, smaller corners and good natured people elsewhere. There is a tiny little town close to Zagreb - Samobor - that has all the charm lacking in capitol. But from time to time, I do find some ancient photo from a hundred years ago that reminds me on certain magic from my early childhood, when I still used to find beauty and wonderment in Zagreb's old streets. Several of those I will place here today because it still brings me joy to see them, though I had moved away in every sense.

The last photo is something recent - its a small street that used to be a bridge between two medieval hills, Captol and Gradec - locals used to fight on this particular spot and for centuries it is known as "bloody bridge" even now, when bridge is no longer there. I used to live just around the corner and my very nearest public library is still here. It is a very pretty photo and it brings back the memories of times when I used to live here.  However, I am not nostalgic at all because honestly it was always a struggle and a living on  shoe-lace budget. I prefer my life as it is today anytime.