Since I am waking up in different city, no wonder occasionally I mix them all and have no idea am I in Trondheim or Tromsø.
Well, now I know.
Trondheim is the one with the church. Previously I have seen it only from the ship, it was pouring rain and not very inviting so I decided not to bother, but this time around it was bright and sunny day and I was curious what is this place I have no memories of visiting before. So bravely and full of adventure spirit, I took a walk where no man has gone before, alone - without colleagues or any acquaintances, which turned out excellent idea as I was free like a bird and without obligations to entertain anyone, just me with my I-pod. Than I turned it off, because I wanted to enjoy birds singing and the sounds of the sunny day around me. In all honesty, city is nothing much to talk about - clean, orderly and therefore slightly boring - I almost miss the chaos and dirt of Naples because every brick in this place shines unrealistically and there is a strange museum-like atmosphere of the whole place, it does not feel real somehow, maybe because there were not many people around except tourists.
BUT there is a very famous cathedral here - not just Europe's but world's northernmost cathedral - centre of medieval pilgrimages and built on a grave of Norwegian King/Saint Olav, so naturally it was something to check out as I love historical buildings and church was clearly visible over the rooftops. I enjoyed relaxing walk to there, somehow found my way to the impressive cathedral - Gothic, spiky and full of sculptures of saints, just as churches are all over the world. So far, so good. I walked little bit around the area, noticed that this cathedral is actually in a very good shape (later found out it had been extensively reconstructed, rebuilt and refurnished trough last two centuries) and than, in the spur of the moment decided to pay the ticket and have a look inside. This one is not just any church but also a tourist attraction and since something constantly needs to be rebuild - roof here, stained glass window there - visitors pay the ticket. Fine.
I entered and immediately gasped in amazement. This is he most beautiful, the most perfect church I have ever seen - very simple (protestant, I think, this is north after all), very dark and theatrical, it is huge inside and feels Gothic, very "Game of Thrones", very medieval, like a temple, light coming from candles and from stained glass windows. Just beautiful and very, very impressive. I am constantly thrilled with protestant churches and equally unimpressed with what I see in the catholic world of Italy, Spain and at home - those leave me cold, while these northern temples are real and appeal to me far more. This feels like a God's temple. Its simply my own personal impression. I was perfectly happy here - not feeling like a small mouse in awe of big God who is going to punish me and squeeze with his thumb any moment (as you feel in Vatican, for example) but excited for being in such enchanting place full of history and shadows. My head buzzing from fantasy working overtime and everything looking like some huge theatre stage (am I medieval lord or the wizard or perhaps priestess of Avalon?) I peeked in every corner, gawked at few rare portraits and decorations (if there were any, there were historical and purposely placed there as memorial) and later hid behind the altar to take this crappy photo, because photography is forbidden.
Why would photography be forbidden I have no idea, because my camera would definitely not damage 11th century stone cathedral, except that perhaps locals are sick and tired of tourists clicking and this is a very special place, after all. So I respect and agree with this, but clicked my camera nevertheless, hiding behind some wall and voilà there was ancient St.Olav's Well right behind me. The whole place was just magnificent.
After I roamed enough everywhere and discovered what it feels like a dozen little chapels inside, I found myself in front of the main altar where I had my usual little meditative moment & conversation with God but surprisingly, this time I had not asked for anything. This time I was just perfectly happy and content with myself and life around me, glad that I am who I am at this particular moment of my life, grateful for such a beautiful day, grateful for standing here and for seeing all of this. So I thanked for all of this and than had a coffee on a sunny terrace right in front of church, feeling relaxed, fulfilled and happy for once.
No comments:
Post a Comment