Old Zagreb

In my previous post I ranted a bit about the difference between my grey hometown and the current home location, however to be fair I must admit that even my hometown - neglected as it is - has its charm, its just that I am unfortunately immune to it. Zagreb was always kind of "little Vienna" and later in life, during my subsequent visits to Austria I noticed that we picked up very much the same architecture, food, probably even the same way of living and passion for perpetual coffee-bars hopping, people watching, etc. Strudel, schnitzel, pancakes, goulash, you name it, we have it all. I do enjoy finding interesting historical pictures of Zagreb, since they give a completely different perspective on city's growth and I am able to recognise the locations - however, this is just a little hobby from a distance,the city does not look like this anymore. 

The earliest documents always mention the fact that city grew around two different (and very competitive) clerical centres, situated on a nearby hills: Gradec and Kaptol who actually fought against each other on a place remembered today as a "bloody bridge" (the street on that spot is actually named like this). Gradec was surrounded with several city walls of which only one is still in existence, so called Stone Gate from 13th century, that eventually became a pilgrimage spot for catholics who affectionately light the candles under the Virgin Mary painting for hundreds of years. I remember that even as a kid I would hear the expression "we must light the candle on the Stone Gate" if you really wanted something badly, for example before the school exam. A really pretty old classic novel was focused on this particular spot and the heroine Dora is immortalised as a sculpture next to the Stone Gate. 

Kaptol on the other hand, was always about ancient catholic district and a cathedral that was perpetually and forever surrounded with scaffoldings. Through the centuries there were several buildings on this spot, the only one really remembered was gone in 1880. earthquake and after that a glorious gothic cathedral was built here, this gothic cathedral is genuinely a sight to behold and it is a symbol of the city ever since. Interestingly enough, the old church was surrounded by a exciting walls that I have never ever seen in my life so its thrilling to find old photographs, it looks totally unrecognisable. 

As a kid I grew in the poor neighbourhood between these two ancient hills and while nowadays people find it all very romantic, believe me there was nothing pretty about it. All I remember was the poverty, drunken neighbours, ladies of the night and the constant smell of damp - my street was built above the old stream that is probably running somewhere deep underneath. There was a time when as a daydreaming teenager I did find it romantic, but I outgrew that period and don't find anything romantic about poverty anymore. In fact, I dislike even visiting that area when I'm around - I never go there purposely and actively avoiding going there. Apparently it is a very big tourist attraction nowadays and it looks completely different, with zillion of coffee bars, boutiques, etc. I do like discovering old black & white pictures from decades ago, but watching them from a safe distance. I am happy where I am right now. And so proud of myself that I made it out of there.