The Hamburger Kunsthalle

In Hamburg, again. 

Its far from having fun in the sun because I was transferred from one "dry dock" to another, which means basically replacing one extreme refurbishment for another - carpenters, electricians and plumbers everywhere, no air condition or hot water, going outside is adventure requiring helmets, climbing the cumbersome stairways and lots of other improvisations. But again I have time enough to walk around town and its interesting that this time I see Hamburg differently - either my interests have changed or simply I have learned to look elsewhere. Where previously I couldn't think about anything further than Hamburg's history museum, now I walked to famous Art collection. As usual, it is in the middle of re-construction and perhaps its even better this way, because I was spared thousand and one religious painting - the selected, most famous masterpieces are displayed in the basement.

This Hamburg collection actually had some really beautiful pieces. The biggest joy I got was from seeing "Wanderer above the Sea of Fog" in real life - it is a legendary, classic and romantic painting from 1818 by German painter Caspar David Friedrich whom I loved for many years. Friedrich was very successful in his time but unfortunately his style fell out of fashion and he died in obscurity, poverty and depression that clearly shows in his art - I always found him extraordinarily moving and melancholic. This particular painting had long been a favorite of mine and it could be explained in many ways - either as a victorious exuberance, brave spirit of adventure, strong-willed decision to face the unknown or perhaps futility of attempting to change one's destiny. I see different things every time I look upon this painting, mostly positive and empowering. In real life the painting is large enough to be totally regal and impressive, for me this is the centerpiece of the whole collection.

Of course there was much more, once I got over my initial excitement about "Wanderer" - I only glanced at religious paintings because frankly I have seen so many of them that I don't have patience anymore but I admired cute little landscapes by Dutch painters, beautiful 17th century portraits, "Cabinet of curiosities" that were collections of wealthy people (predecessors of museums), mythological themes (Dido & Aeneas), Francisco de Goya, naturally several more breath-taking paintings by Friedrich ("The Sea of Ice", "Sea Shore in the Moonlight") and a few discoveries like this pretty piece by German artist Wilhelm von Kobell which for me sings about summer day. I can almost hear the sounds of sunny afternoon when I look at this little painting.

Some artists I recognized immediately - Degas, Renoir, Manet, Cézanne, Munch, Van Gogh - others were new to me, like excellent Max Liebermann whose moving "The Netmenders" I couldn't take my eyes off or Félix Vallotton whose clever "White and black" I assumed was homage to earlier classic paintings. I have also instantly recognized sculptures by Auguste Rodin, whose "Honoré de Balzac" was delightful and there was a very interesting self portrait by lady named Anita Ree that I found fascinating. I had absolutely great day and it was all by myself with time on my hands, without pressure, just slowly browsing and enjoying myself.